Sunday, June 29, 2014

Vancouver British Columbia Day 8

This will be a short report.

We checked out of the hotel in Victoria by 8:30 and started driving north towards the ferry terminal to Vancouver. We paid and sat in the line for about 40 minutes watching the families around us deal with whiny kids and impatient adults as they too waited to board the ferry.

Once loaded, we left the car and made our way to the forward observation deck. The sun was peaking out at us through heavy clouds as the ferry got underway. It was much warmer than our ferry crossing 3 days ago.

As we stood by the front railing, a gentleman walked over to take pictures and I got to talking with him about his journey. He and his wife live in central British Columbia and have been looking for a retirement home that doesn't have so much snow. 2 nights ago, his realtor called to tell him of a new property that just came available by Victoria, so he and his wife drove down at 5:00am and took the ferry to Victoria. They saw the home at noon, made an offer at 2pm and it was accepted by 9pm. Now he just needs to sell the home he's in, retire from his job, and he'll have no more snow shovelling to do. They are very excited.

As we chatted, the ferry crossed a small bay, then swung in a big turn to enter a narrow passage through some islands. We made a couple of turns as we navigated the passage, then entered the big stretch of water that would take us the rest of the way to Vancouver.

It was getting windier and colder, so we finished our chat, wished each other well, then Mike and I went inside to find some seats for the rest of the crossing.

Not long after we left the ferry it began to rain. There was no wind or storm front, it just began to rain a steady drizzle.

On the ferry, we had talked about where to have lunch and decided on a chicken place called Nandos. Mike had pointed it out a few days ago and said it was a great European chain that he eats at often when he's abroad. We followed the GPS through a few interesting turns but eventually found it. The chicken was really good and a bit spicy. I ordered grilled vegetables with mine and loved the charred flavor on the onions and bell peppers.

We had planned on going to a Jazz festival, but the rain seems have squashed that idea. We threw around several other ideas but nothing seemed to stick, so we just drove to the hotel and checked in. The rain continued falling and we kept trying to figure something interesting to do. Eventually we decided to go watch a movie. Neither of us had seen the new X-Men Days of Futures Past, so we took our coats and an umbrella and headed up the street to find the theater.

The umbrella did it's job. The rain stopped by the time we reached the lobby and didn't return all day, so I just carried the umbrella for the next 10 hours just to make sure.

On the way to the theater we stopped for crepes at "The Crepe Cafe". As we neared the theater we say another Crepe Cafe. We bought tickets but still had 40 minutes before show time so we decided to walk around and spotted a couple more Crepe Cafes in the area. I could understand having a few of the same food stands in a city, but 4 within 4 blocks? Canadians must really love their crepes.

Another thing we saw while walking around was a large section of street being blocked off. We found some signs that told us it was a "Busker Festival". If you don't know what a Busker is (and I didn't), they are street performers that ask for donations. They can be musicians, actors, acrobats, mimes, magicians, almost anything. There were 3 blocks and 6 stages setup for the buskers and a schedule of when the different buskers would start shows. The festival didn't start for a few hours yet and we decided to come back after we watched our movie.

The movie was pretty good. Some parts seemed a tad weak but it was pretty fun. From the movie we went to a Japanese place for dinner, then walked to the busker festival.

We wandered back and forth looking at the various performers. Some were pretty good and others not so much. My favorites were a band that played Nigerian music (lot of percussion), a husband and wife acrobatics team, an escape artist/commedian, and a chinese acrobat. I really enjoyed wandering around and watching the shows. It was a real street crowd atmosphere with little kids running around, street food, and the occasional roudy drunk. The husband and wife team had to ask security to come control a man that kept walking out into the middle of their act.

We left as the festival shut down at 10. Back at the hotel I uploaded my photos and am almost done with this blog. It's hard to believe that 9 days are almost gone. Tomorrow we have to be to the airport by 11, so no more touring, just travel. I won't do another blog report after this one.

My best memories of this trip in chronological order are:

1) The Jazz festival - Company B singing 50s songs and another band I can't remember doing real Jazz
2) Shakespeare on the beach
3) Capilano bridge - the cliff walk, the board walk, the tree walk, and the bridge itself
4) Grouse Mountain - The incredible tram ride up, the lumberjack show, the wind eye
5) Granville Island - The broom store and the market
6) Whistler ski resort - all of it, just beautiful
7) Ferry rides
8) Pacific Coast National Park - beaches, boardwalk trials
9) Tofino - Whale watching boat ride
10) Victoria - Museum, Red Fish Blue Fish for lunch, Butchart gardens
11) Busker Festival

The best thing about the whole trip was just spending a week with my great friend Mike.  But if I had to pick my absolute favorite activity, it was probably Whistler. The views were epic.

On board the Ferry, looking back at the terminal


A view form the ferry


Nandos for lunch


Unicycle Juggler


Unicycle Juggler


Nigerian Band


Escape artist (comedian)


Acrobatic team


Acrobatic team


Acrobatic team


Another of the band


Friday, June 27, 2014

Victoria British Columbia Day 7

Victoria on Vancouver Isle

Last night I really crashed after getting the blog written.  I had slept during part of the drive and still I was exhausted.  Mike thinks it might have been the motion sickness pills that were doing it and I think he might be right.

Whatever the case, I slept very soundly all night and didn't wake up until after 7:00.  I would have slept later but someone texted me and I hadn't muted the phone.  Oh well, time to get up anyway, we were burning vacation daylight.

After breakfast we headed down to the docks to see what we could see.  It was overcast and slightly chilly outside.  The docks were interesting, but nothing special so we walked on by and headed toward the British Columbia Museum.  The museum didn't open for another 30 minutes which left enough time to go wander through the Fairmont Hotel, a 5 start hotel.  It was very posh.

When the museum opened, we bought tickets and started wandering through the exhibits.  They had a visiting exhibit about vikings that was very good.  I learned all sort of things, like the fact that no viking ever had horns on his helmet, that's a myth.  Also, no one ever called themselves a viking, instead, they went viking or in other words, went raiding.

The museum was very kid friendly and had a lot of hands on things to touch and feel.

Around noon we started thinking of lunch and consulted the all knowledgable Fodors guide book.  It had some good recommendations but I'd seen, heard and we'd had recommended a good fish place called Red Fish Blue Fish, so we looked up it's address and started walking.  The clouds were thickening and the temperature was dropping by the time we arrived.  The Red Fish Blue Fish is in a converted shipping container right down on the docks.  There was a line of about 20 people waiting to order, and allot of people sitting on stools along the dock eating their food.  It was not high dining but it appeared to be popular dining.

As we neared the front of the line (30 minutes) I told Mike to go find us a spot and I ordered the food.  We got a double order of Halibut and chips, and I got a Halibut and chipotle taco to try.  The fish was awesome, really crispy and cooked perfectly.  Mike found us seats under an awning and we dug in.  They had a great malt vinegar to sprinkle on the fish and chips, it was really dark and potent.  I wish we could get such good vinegar in the states.

My taco was ok, but not as good as the battered fish.  I think it must be yesterday's fish turned into a salad, then wrapped in a tortilla.  Next time I'll know just to stick with the straight up fish and chips.

We were nearly done eating when it suddenly started raining.  And I do mean suddenly.  There was no piter pater of drops that slowly increased.  Just suddenly rain started coming down.  It was hard or windy or anything, just a good steady rain.

All the people along the dock scrambled to move under shelter, but the people in line just stood there.  No one was giving up their spot in that long line for just a bit of rain.

We finished our lunch and sit for a minute, but we couldn't sit the rain out.  Too many people needed our spaces to eat their own meals, so we put on coats and started back for the hotel.  I grabbed a picture of the food stand as we went past.

The rain kept drizzling lightly all the way back to the hotel.  We decided to dry off and figure out where to go next.

After consulting the Fodors oracle, we decided on the Butchart Gardens about 15 kilometers away.  The rain had stopped by now, but we asked the concierge if we could borrow umbrellas just in case.  By the time we reached the gardens the sun was nearly shining.  We opted to take the umbrellas anyway on the theory that if we were prepared for rain it surely wouldn't come, and it didn't.

It also turns out that Butchart gardens is prepared for rain too.  They have carts full of umbrellas all around the gardens, so if it rains, people can just grab an umbrella and keep wandering.  That's a great thing to know if we ever come back again.

The gardens were a pet project by Mrs Butchart.  When a limestone quarry near her home ran out of limestone, they purchased the remaining hole in the ground and she began designing gardens in those holes.

The first garden we saw was the Sunken Garden and it's easy to see the rectangular shape of the old quarry. It's so filled with trees, shrubs, and flowers that it's easy to forget it's origins and just get lost in the colors.

We descended the stairs and wandered the paths through the garden.  Each flower bed was filled with different flowers, sometimes one variety but different colors mixed, and sometimes several varieties.  The words "A riot of color" was very apt for describing what we were seeing.

At the end of the garden it suddenly dropped off into a deep pool, and in the middle of that pool was a dancing fountain.  Different water jets turned on and off, or waved around to produce curtains and swirls of water in the air.

The next garden was the Rose garden.  Hundreds of different bushes surrounded a central ring of grass.  We wandered around looking at all the varieties and colors.  One rose bush had a dark red that was nearly black, and the petals looked like velvet.  There was every color you could imagine a rose being, from yellow, to pink, to purple, and orange.  This was clearly the most popular garden because it was packed with people.  It was very hard to get a picture without 10 other people being in it with you.

There was a large arched walkway leading out of the garden with hundreds of roses and other plants growing over the arches.

From the Rose garden we next went to the Japenese garden.  It wasn't so much about flowers and color as it was about tranquility and flawless design.  Everything was trimmed and manacured very precisely.  We sat on some benches for a while and enjoyed a babbling brook running through the middle of the garden until some loud americans came by and asked Mike to take pictures of them.

Speaking of nationalities, we've heard a whole lot of different languages being spoken.  English speakers seem to be in the minority here.  Japenese seems the most common with Chinese a close second.  But we've heard German, Dutch, Spanish, French, and I think Nigerian and a few other African languages.  But everyone seems to understand a little english and we hear "Please", and "Excuse me" all the time as we attempt to pass people on the narrow walkways.

We continued on to the Italian garden which was set in a stone courtyard with stone lined ponds.  Lastly we saw the Medeteranian garden with many plants that I've seen at home and in Arizona.

Between us, Mike and I took way over 200 pictures, so I'll have to pair it down a long ways for the report.  There are just too many to put in the blog.

From the garden we returned to our hotel to ask for a dinner recommendation.  We were thinking Sushi and he knew a great small place nearby.  He made us reservations and we took off walking.  It was 4 or 5 blocks away. 

When we reached the restaurant the lady had our reservations mixed up.  She thought we weren't coming for another hour, but a bit of fast talking by Mike and she seated us anyway.  We sat at the counter watching the chefs creating food for the other customers.

We ordered a bit of everything including Miso, Inari, Taro, Sake, california rolls, and a few other things that I didn't know how to pronounce.  Mike took a picture of me to post on facebook.

I ate as much as I could, but in the end, Mike had to finish the last few taco and sake.  It was good eating for sure.

Back at the hotel I actually got to working on the blog by 8:00.  I'm hoping to get it done so I can go sit in the hot tub before going to sleep.  Wish me luck.


An exhibit in the British Columbia Museum


Another exhibit


The line to Red Fish Blue Fish


Looking back at Red Fish Blue Fish. It's a rectangular fishing container with plants on the roof


A walkway in Butchart gardens


Looking down into the sunken garden


Me in front of a covered walkway


Gardens


Flowers


Flowers


Yellow flowers for my lovely wife who loves yellow


More yellow flowers


More flowers and me


Lilly pond


Flowers


Flowers


Dancing Fountain


More Yellow


The Rose Garden


Panorama of the rose garden


The rose arch


The main buildings at the gardens


Entering the Japensese garden


Bamboo path


Italian Garden


Nearly Broncos colors


The entrance to China Town in Victoria


Whale Watching British Columbia Day 6

Whale Watching

The plan for the day was whale watching here in Torfino, then travel to Victoria.

We rolled out by 9:00 and made our way into Torfino and Jamie's Whale Watching Station.  We thought about going out on a 12 man Zodiac inflatable, but instead we chose the 64 foot boat named the Leviathan II.  The thought of bouncing over waves at high speed just didn't seem that enticing.  It also sounded nice to have a covered heated deck to retreat into with hot chocolate and a bathroom.

There were 23 of us on the boat.  The captain explained that all of the whale watching boats keep in contact by radio, so the boats already out were reporting back any sightings and unfortunately there were none yet.

He took us to the bay where they've seen whales for the last 5 days, but we saw nothing and another boat that had been there 20 minutes before us had also seen nothing, so he continued driving us north.

It was very chilly, probably in the mid 50s and with the windchill it felt like 40s.  Most of the other passengers opted to wrap themselves in complementary blankets, but us tough guys waved them away and faced into the wind to look for whale sign.  If you've never been whale watching, the thing you're looking for is that white puff of steamy air as the whale surfaces to breath.  I could see allot of white plumes around us because there were rocks and sholes everywhere and waves were pounding on them.  I sure hoped the captain knew his business because it would be very easy to sink a boat around this stuff.

Eventually another boat reported a while far to the north of us and swimming slowly south.  So we arrowed toward the area to intercept them.  Then another boat reported a smaller whale a bit closer in a large bay so he switched to that one.  We we got deep into the bay we caught our first sighting, but just a single puff of air.  The captain explained that a single puff usually means the animal is swimming and not feeding or diving.  When they feed they normally take 3 to 5 breaths, then arch over and dive, sometimes showing their dorsal fin.

We watched the small whale for 20 minutes but it continued to meander slowly around the bay taking single breaths.

A third boat reported yet another whale nearby that was feeding, so we gave up on the small one and headed back out to the mouth of the bay where we spotted the larger whale near what the captain said was a rock outcrop just beneath the surface.  The whale took 3 breaths fairly close, then arched it's back and dove, but no fluke showed.

We loitered around for 40 minutes and watched the whale repeat the process several times but never lifted his tail out.

We'd been a long time coming this far out and the captain said we had to head back now, so I went below for that hot chocolate and a break from the wind.  It felt heavenly.

The ride back was nice and the captain took use very close to many of the islands so we got a close look at them.  They are all packed with trees and vegetation right down to the water's edge.  We didn't see any bears or other animals but we did see an eagle in the top of one tree.

Once we were back on land, we grabbed some lunch then started pouring over the map to figure out what we wanted to see before heading to Victoria.  Yesterdays' hike around the rain forest was so fun we thought we should do another one.  But the descriptions quickly changed our minds in most cases.

"Steep", or "a challenge", or "long" ruled out most of the hikes.  Eventually we settled for "suitable for a toddler" and headed out.  It wasn't that bad, but we did avoid the multi kilometer hikes and settled on a hike around a bog.

The bog was very eerie.  The trees were all stunted and the ground covered with a thick moss.  When we tried stepping off the path, our shoes would sink several inches into the moss.  It was like stepping on a very thick sponge.

The walkway was like yesterdays', wooden raised boardwalks, but this time without stairs (maybe it was suitable for a toddler).  We met an oriental family coming out and the father said it was simply the best thing he'd seen.  I'm not sure why he told us that, or exactly what he found so amazing.  It was nice, but not earth shakingly nice.  We walked around taking pictures and listening to the roar of the ocean just the other side of some large trees.

When we reached the end we looked on the map again and found a trail that lead along a bluff and eventually down to the ocean.  It was a very peaceful hike that ended with a long staircase leading down to the beach.

"You know" I told Mike, "when you go down stairs, it often means you have to climb back up them".

We stared for a few seconds, then took the plunge.

We walked along the beach for about 15 minutes before starting back to the car.  The climb wasn't bad, but after all that time on the boat and hiking, it was the end of physical stuff for me for the day.  We piled into the car and stared the drive back across Vancouver Island toward the city of Victory which is also the capital of the province of British Columbia.

Yesterday when we came, we were stuck behind several slow moving vehicles for most of the trip.  This time, Mike had no hindrance and hit the road with a vengeance.  The road is far more twisty than I remember it.  It really would be a fun motorcycle road, but you'd be very tired after riding it for 90 kilometers.

Mike settled into a rhythm and my eye lids slowly closed.  I slept for about an hour and it felt great.  It took roughly 4 hours to drive to Victoria.  We were both wiped out by the time we got here, but we checked in, then walked about a kilometer to get dinner and a kilometer back.

I'm not sure the whale watching was really worth all the effort because all you really see is the breath blow and some of their back.  The ride was fun and the tour kind of nice, but it didn't need to be so long.  Maybe bear watching would have been better.  We heard you can really see them well.

Pictures from yesterday that I didn't get uploaded last night:


Me on the rainforest path


Allot of stars on this path


More stairs


Sunset from the balcony


Writing the blog on the balcony


Pictures from today

In line to board the boat


On the boat


Passing some islands


A colony of sea lions


More islands and the blustery sky. Warm sunshine would have been nice


A puff of breath


An arched back and the whale is gone


The marina. Our boat is the farthest away on the left


Jamie's Whale Watching Station


The bog path


The bog


More path and a fleeting glimpse of Mike


More bog


A bog tunnel


The path to the beach


Looking through the trees and over the bluff at the beach


Stairs, why'd it have to be stairs?


They look even steeper from down here