Friday, September 4, 2026

2026 Natchez Trace ride - Day 9 - Natchez #1


Riding the Natchez Trace Parkway


This was a very slow starting day. Angela and Karen didn't arrive until almost 10:00pm and they were exhausted, so both are entitled to sleeping in and not rushing out the door. I didn't even wake up till 6:30. By the time I showered and got downstairs, it was after 7 and John, as usual, was sitting doing work on his laptop. 

I thought I'd give Walmart one last try. There's a super Walmart just around the corner so I rode over and look for a tripod. They had the exact same selection of the other two Walmarts I've tried, so there's no point in ever trying again , until I do.

I got back to the hotel and got all my gear loaded down from the room and onto the bike. Then I spend a wild cleaning the windshield and other parts of the bike.  When I pulled out my small spray bottle of Rain-X, I got my proof that yesterday was the hottest ride yet.  The spray bottle had melted and deformed. So not only get my watch overheat and turn off, my phone overheat and go into night time mode and then into power saving mode, but it was actually melting plastic on my motorcycle. 

Proof that my bike rides have been HOT


Getting the bikes ready.  The "foggy" appearance is the humidity in the air


While we were loading, Ron said he had a small Styrofoam ice chest that he's been using on the ride. But now that Karen is here she will be on the back seat. I had him bring it down and we put it on my back seat for the next few days. I had 3D printed a bracket for my bike so that I can stretch a bungee strap across my back seat to hold things on. It holds this ice chest fine. But the ice chest is just a little too big and pushes my seat rest forward. When I push back against it it applies pressure to the ice chest and might break it. But the worst that can happen is cold water runs off the back seat and on to the ground.

All of us have Bluetooth intercom by Cardo.  That means we can all talk together while riding down the road. But first you have to get them all paired. We spent a little while trying to get them all working and eventually managed to hear each other. But there's lots of other functions that will need to figure out along the way. For example if you leave your helmet open and the wind blast your microphone it hits all four of the other Riders very loud and annoying. Ask me how I know! 

We were ready to go around 9:00. We went to gas up and load the ice chest with ice and drinks. Angela still needed to return the rental car so he sent them ahead to the airport then followed a few minutes later.

Once that was all done and we picked them up, we were finally ready to get started with our ride.

John led the way out of the airport, but I guess he hadn't driven to the exact spot the GPS wanted him to go, so it kept telling him to flip a u-turn and go back to the airport. But in the meantime he missed our turn off to get on the freeway. Ron did take the turn off  and now is separated from the rest of us. Everybody had their own idea of how to fix the situation and with our intercoms we could all talk at the same time and tell each other our wonderful ideas. There's a specific term for what was happening and it starts with the word cluster but we won't go into that.

My GPS was working fine so I whipped around John and just tell them to follow me. We did get turned back around and when we started to eat on the freeway, there was wrong who had just pulled off to the side . Crisis averted. John also figured out that all he needed to do was hit a little X on his screen and it skipped the errant Waypoint and started working correctly so he took lead back.

We are going to spend 3 days riding the Natchez Trace Parkway . It's a road built over a famous Trail that was used for hundreds of years by farmers to deliver their goods to Market . The government bought all the land making up the trail and made a national park out of it . It's 400 miles long and about 800 ft wide .

But before we can ride the parkway, we have to get to it .  It's about a hundred miles from Baton Rouge to Natchez. We took Interstate 10 about 2 miles over to US Highway 61. It's a beautiful divided four lane Highway. When we finally got out of city limits , the temperature dropped by about four degrees and felt really nice. It was mostly cloudy that was helping keep the temperatures down.


US 61 is no slouch when it comes to nice highways


When we crossed the state line from Louisiana to Mississippi, we decided to stop and get a picture.  John tried to setup his tripod to get a group shot, but it just wouldn't stand up on sloped terrain.  So I pulled out the 360 camera.  It does OK but it doesn't give the quality that a normal camera on a tripod can give.


Welcome to Mississippi


Our bikes, us, and the sign all at once



All morning we've seen some largish black flying bugs hanging around.  While we were posing for the photo the bugs started to become a bit bothersome.  Then they got a bit worse.  Ron mentioned that they seemed to be "paired up" as it were, and sure enough they were all in pairs.  We kind of laughed it off and headed for the bike.  When we got there, we found the bikes, jackets, helmet and everything COVERED with the bugs.  You'd slap them to get them off but they'd come right back.  My windshield was absolutly full of them.  At least they didn't bite.

We all quickly tried to gear up and get going.  But I had to get a picture first, so I was behind everyone else by about 30 seconds.  Looking at the picture seems allot fewer than it felt like at the time.  Just looking at it, I find myself feeling them landing on my ears and arms.   YEEEESH!



Once I was going, they did not want to let go.  I was going  almost 80 before they were blown away.

We stopped at the next gas station to clean up and go potty.  Once I stopped, bug flew out of every crevice and nook on the bike.  They'd gotten everywhere.  I spent a while getting them out of things, then washed the windshield about 4 times to clean the mess from all the bugs we'd hit.  John asked the lady in the store about them and she said they're called "Love Bugs", and sure enough it was they're spawning season.

Once we got ourselves de-bugged, we got back on the road.  Our route had us just going through the outskirts of natchez, but it was lunch time so we deviated and followed a sign that pointed us to downtown Natchez. I'm not sure what the sign meant by downtown, but we were just riding through neighborhoods with no signs of any businesses or restaurants.

I was at the back of the group as we drove past a school.  Suddenly I heard John yell "LOOK OUT" over the intercom.  Ron slammed on his brakes in front of me and stopped.  I had no idea what was happening.  Then I noticed that Ron seemed to be tangled in a wire as something fly off to his right.

There seemed to be a wire coming from above and to the left of Ron, it was snagged on his bike then went to the upper right.  It took me a few seconds to realize it was coming from the power poles on either side of the street.  Ron shoved the wire forward, then lifted it up and over his head and let it go.  Now it shot back toward me behind him.  It thumped the front of my bike but not very hard.

Then Angela yelled over the intercom "THE POLE IS GOING TO FALL".  I quickly glanced to the left and the power/telephone pole was wobbling back and forth.  It was obviously very loose in its hole.  It didn't seem to be cracked or broken, just loose.

I finally looked at the wire and recognized that it was low voltage wire.  It was thin and covered in a plastic insulator.  If it was thick and heavy, or worse, uninsulated, then it would have been extremely dangerous.  But since Ron had touched it with no ill effects, I did the same thing.  Unhook it from my bike, lift it up over my head and let it flip behind me.  Then because of the whole wobbly pole thing, I pulled 30 yards down the street past Ron and parked on the side of the street.

I had noticed a car coming the opposite direction, and about this time I realized it was a police car.  But whoever was in it, stayed inside and didn't come out.  Ron started talking about his hand being cut and his right side mirror being ripped off.  Then Karen said she'd nearly been strangled when the wire hit.



The off duty officer and an on duty officer helping Ron



Ron's Bike missing his side mirror


The loose pole and the wire hanging from it to the ground


Within a minute, another police car showed up and started checking on things.  A man walked over from a work van parked at the school and said we should clear the wire but he didn't have anything to cut it with.  I handed him my leatherman and he used it to cut what was remaining of the wire then we kicked it up onto the sidewalks.

More police showed up and talked with Ron.  I guess they called paramedics to check out his cuts.  The officer in the first car finally got out and came over to explain that she was off duty and wasn't allowed to help until she'd called in and been given permission.

The man who's house we were in front of came out to talk as well.  He said the wire had been sagging all day.  He'd called the utility company 2 hours ago about the pole and the wire.

Then the most surreal thing happened.  As everything was calming down and the police were clearing the traffic that had backed up.  A car pulled past, the window rolled down, and the Mayor of the town waved at us and wished us a good day.  I have no idea if he came because of the accident or just happen to be passing.


The mayor wishing us a good day


Eventually the police had us all move down the street to a gas station to park and get statements.  We told him we'd move if he'd tell us where to get good food.  He told us to go to "The Camp" restaurant.

Ron's big concern was and is, who's going to repair his bike?  It ripped the mirror off and scraped several panels.  The police gave him incident numbers and the info about the utility company.  We'll see if he ever gets a dime out of anyone.

We followed the officer's advice and had the GPS take us to The Camp.  It led us down more small neighborhood streets, and all of us commented about just how many wires were strewn across the streets as we drove.

The road led us right toward the Mississippi river then turned left and onto a one way street that descended right to the water's edge.  That's where The Camp was.  We parked then went to take pictures of the nearby bridge and the river.


Parking at The Camp



The Camp on the left and the Mississippi and a bridge



Having Lunch


The Camp


The food was pretty good.  Just standard american fare, with sandwiches, salads and such.  I had a brisket sandwich and really good fries.

Once we left, we headed toward the beginning of the Natchez Trace Parkway.  It was just outside of town.  The entrance felt like were were going onto a freeway which is almost what it is.  The government designed it to be "light on the landscape".  There are no stop signs or traffic lights.  Most intersections are freeway like, but a few are 90 degree turn off/on roads.  There are no homes, driveway, stores, or other businesses.  It's 400 miles of slow speed scenic byway.

If was well past noon by now, and if it were like the last 6 days, I'd already be sweating.  But it is cloudy and the temperatures are barely into the 90s.  It feels very nice.  We were all talking about how unusual the road is.  It's not a 4 lane super highway.  Just 2 lanes, but the grass to either side is well maintained and this trees run the whole length.  Sometimes the trees are close to the road and sometimes a 100 feet or more away.  But you can never see off into the distance, there are always trees blocking the view.  Someone joked that there were subdivisions, factories, cities, and freeways just the other side of the trees.  Turns out, that's exactly how it works.


The Natchez Trace Parkway


Beautiful ride on the parkway.  If I took every beautiful view I'd have thousands


Riding 40mph means I can stand up to stretch cramped legs and get more air


Ron and Karen.  Can you see the Bat Symbol on his hood?


John and Angela.  No bat symbol, just Cool Factor


This is about as intrusive as it gets on the parkway.  A 90 degree on/off ramp


We had gone about 20 miles when someone need a bio break so we pulled off to a small building we could see.  There were restrooms, and an information center staffed by a volunteer.  There was also a group of old homes just off into the woods.  Karen and Angela went off to see the buildings while Ron went to chat with the volunteer.  The best thing about the volunteer was that he had an air conditioned room with lots of maps on the walls.  We cared a little about the maps, but we cared A LOT about the AC.

Stopped for a bio break and a 20 minute lecture on the parkway from an enthusiast



It wasn't super hot, but the humidity with no air movement was stifling.  In fact, when we were ready to leave, Ron had to work on something for 10 minutes, so John and I just drove around and around the oblong parking lot just to have air movement.

Once we were back on the road, we went about 10 miles when the pavement changed from dry to pretty wet.  It looked like we had just missed some very heavy rain. The rain really cooled the air off and once again it felt wonderful to be riding. The speed limit along the whole parkway is 50 mph but we were only going about 40 so that we can enjoy the ride better. 

It was about this time when I wanted to take a picture with my waterproof camera.  Not for any particular reason, just because the area was beautiful.  I hit the cruise control, then with my right hand I reached down and grabbed the camera.  I got my index finger positioned over the power button and turned it on.  Then lifted the camera up to take the picture.  As I got it up over the windshield, the lanyard just disconnected.  I have no idea why, but suddenly I had hundreds of dollars worth of camera in my hand, held only by a few fingers and no ALL-SAVING lanyard attached.  I very carefully reached forward and tucked it into the big pouch on my dash board, then for safety, I zipped it shut.  That's gonna need to get figured out and probably replaced.

After another 20 miles or so, John pulled over and parked. This was supposed to be a waterfall and one of the sights not to be missed. We all got our gear off and John walked over to what he thought was the start of a trail. It turned out to be the actual viewing point for the waterfall. He got there then exclaimed "WHAT THE HECK!"  and started laughing.   Angela walked over, took one look, and started laughing as well. 

Stopped to see the amazing waterfall


When we all got there we could see that the scenic waterfall was pretty pathetic. Maybe it was the drought they've been having, but it looked like someone had their hose turned on about one-quarter turn. It was just a pathetic little trickle of water coming down. And even with all of that it was only about a 2-foot drop. 

We started walking back to the bikes when, off in the distance, we heard some thunder rumbling. We could see that the clouds ahead of us were pretty dark. We had had a couple of tiny little sprinkles as we rode but no real evidence of serious rain. I tried to check the weather but we happened to be in a cellular dead zone. 

As we sat there we heard more and more thunder off in the distance. Someone asked if we should put on our rain gear but nobody seemed very excited about that. Rain gear blocks all of the wind and can be a very uncomfortable way to ride in hot weather. We were just about to start getting back on the bikes when the first big drops of rain fell. 

It quickly turned from scattered drops of rain to constant drops of rain to pretty dang heavy rain in about a minute. We all rushed to the bikes and grabbed our rain gear then ran back to the picnic table that happened to be under a big tree. We were putting our rain gear on with the intention of getting on the bikes when the rain really cut loose. 

Trying to put on rain get during a downpour


Sheets of water pouring down on us and then a massive flash of light in the sky followed by an incredible boom of thunder.  We decided to try and wait it out for a little while. I walked over to my bike and grabbed my poor little malformed spray bottle with Rain-X in it. I sprayed my glasses and rubbed it in with my fingers, then shook it off and put the glasses back on. Just like that I could see again. 

I can't believe I didn't take more pictures during all of this, but my waterproof was tucked away, my 360 was in the trunk for safety, and my phone is getting a bit old and I'm worried about it's waterproof-ness.  I should have gotten out the waterproof but it just didn't occur to me.

More thunder and lightning, more heavy rain, and we just sat there getting wetter and wetter. The storm didn't seem to be moving past us. After about 20 minutes we started talking about going ahead and trying to ride out of the rain. Many times in the past I've sat there waiting for a storm to move on and it just will be stuck over me. But when I finally get on the bike and start going, within minutes I've ridden out of it. John and Ron have both had similar experiences so we decided to give it a try. 

We all put on our soaking wet helmets, got on the bikes, and pulled out onto the Natchez Trace Parkway. I was fairly slow getting out and by the time I got on the road, they were gone. I actually wasn't even wearing my glasses because they couldn't shed the water fast enough.   So I was only riding about 30 mph.    I'd catch occasional snippets of conversation on the intercom but I couldn't talk to them.

After only 5 minutes, the rain started to let up and I could speed up.  I quickly got up to 50mph, then a bit more and finally started to hear their conversations.  I finally caught them after another 5 minutes.  John asked what the problem was and I said "It was pouring and I wasn't wearing glasses, the road was more a suggestion, and I wasn't going to speed in those conditions".  That's when he realized he was going 55.  He just naturally gone back to his normal "blash through it" mode of riding.

The rain never fully stopped but it never reached flood proportions again.  We had to ride for almost another hour before it was time to leave the Natchez.  Once we turned off it was like **POOF** you were in the wilderness and now you're in civilization.  We had no idea we were that close to a city.  They've really done a great job with the isolation of the parkway.

We only had to ride a couple of miles to reach our Hampton Inn.  We peeled off the rain gear and helmets, then went in to get our rooms.

Once I was in my room,  I took off my soaking wet shirt and got a towel to dry myself off.  I pulled out all my clothes.  Everything I have is dirty, so I piked what I thought was my cleanest shirt and put it on.  Then I got out the laptop and started the blog.  If I don't start it immediately, I probably won't do it.  I also started pulling photos off my cameras and uploading them.

We were all hungry so we'd agreed to meet at 6:15 in the lobby.  I didn't get much done before it was time to meet.  When I got there, John was missing.  Angela said he was on the phone with a client and might just sell a house.  I've been on many trips where John winds up selling a house in the middle of the trip, so this was just normal stuff.

We started looking for somewhere to eat and decided to try out Lou's.  Angela said she'd wait for John, so Ron, Karen, and I headed off for the 6 minute ride.  When we got there it turned out to be a bit fancy for us.  We were very underdressed.  Plus it was a 90 minute wait.  So we said we'd go somewhere else.

Just next door was a place called the "Eatery".  It was a fast casual place with pizza, salads, soups, and sandwiches.  Ron and Karen split a chicken sandwich and a bowl of soup.  I got a french dip sandwich and a cup of lobster bisque.  They loved their, and I loved mine.  Very warming.

In the middle of eating, Angela texted and asked us to bring them something.  I texted the restaurant info.  They got salads.  Karen and Ron finished their meal and Karen was freezing, so I told them to go and take the food with them.  I texted with Nan and other friends and enjoyed the rest of my meal then headed home as well.

When I got to the hotel, I was surprised to find people spilling out the doors and all over the parking lot.  It must have been a reunion or some other party going on.  There were people everywhere, including kids having foot races up and down the main hallway.

I walked over to check out the laundry facilities.  You needed quarters to run the washer & dryer so I went to the front desk.  They let me get quarters for $5.00.  Then I went up to the room and changed into my swimming suit with my "clean-enough" shirt on.  I put all my clothes in my duffel and went downstairs to do my laundry.  No one blinked an eye at me.  There were many people less dressed than I was.

It took $2.50 to run the washer.  I threw everything into one long and started it.  THEN I REMEMBERED I NEEDED TO PUT IN SOAP.  Luckily I remembered in time before the door locked.  I pulled out a tide pot and tossed it in.

I pulled out my laptop to try and work on the blog, but the laptop ran for only 5 minutes before shutting down due to low battery.  The laptop keeps doing this to me.  I fully charge it, do a full shutdown, put it in the bag for the day while I ride, and when I pull it out again, the battery is near 0.  Why is it using battery while it's OFF?

So I switched to my cell phone.  The voice to text app is pretty bad.  It constantly miss-hears what I say and it has no context intelligence so it chooses the wrong spelling of a word all the time, but it gets a good starting point.  Sometimes I ask AI to correct my blog, but way too many times AI will completely change the tone of what I've written by rewriting whole sections.  So I don't do that very often.  If anything I ask AI to point out problem areas and I fix it myself.  But with a blog like this where I have to write a whole blog every day, there's just no time for all that.  So you get my raw blog, warts and all.

The wash took 30 minutes and a sign on the wall said drying was 30 minutes as well.  I knew 30 minutes would never dry jeans, but I figured I'd at least start it before I went hunting more quarters.  But when I put in the $2.00 to start the dryer it gave me a full hour.   The dryer also allowed for a hot cycle and I took that.

After 30 minutes I pulled the lighter stuff out and it was all dry.  Then another 10 and I pulled my shirts out.  I figured it would take the full hour to dry jeans, but they were done at 45 minutes.  I stuffed it all back into the duffel and headed to the room

It's now 11:15.  I'm nearly done with the blog, but I still have to process the 360 photos.  Hopefully I'll be done with the blog by midnight.





Thursday, September 3, 2026

2026 Natchez Trace ride - Day 8 - Baton Rouge


Standing up while riding down a hill...my hat nearly flew off


This was a really casual morning. I woke up around 5:30 and I started packing my gear. Then at 6:00, I walked down to the breakfast area. A waffle, hardboiled eggs, and yogurt were as good as it got.

It will be time to do laundry once I get to Baton Rouge, so I left at 7:30 and drove over to a nearby Walmart. I picked up some Tide Pods and laundry sheets, and then rode back to the Vicksburg National Military Park. 


84 degrees and the bike is covered in dew, it's THAT humid!


It was 8:15 and the gates apparently don't open until 8:30. So I parked in the shade and enjoyed a few moments of peace and quiet. There were about 20 cars in the parking lot, so I figured everyone was waiting for the gates to open, just like me.

But, when the gates opened, I was the only one to pull out and go through. In fact, on my whole ride, I only passed two other cars. But I passed 30 or more people walking the roads. Maybe that's the big thing here, to walk the park while the roads are closed and before it gets hot.


Waiting for the gates to open



Anyway, it was a lot cooler than yesterday, about 82°.  It felt great. I followed the audio tour, but this time I spent a lot more time reading signs and looking at the positioning of the cannons. In some places you could clearly see Federal lines versus Confederate lines.  The road was sometimes behind the lines and sometimes in front.

When I was in Shiloh and again yesterday, I used my 360 camera to take all of my pictures except the few that I took with my phone. Today, I was sitting there thinking it would be a lot easier if I could hold my phone to take pictures without trying to position the bike.  That's about when my brain went "DOH!!"  I had purchased a new waterproof camera with a lanyard specifically to let it hang around my neck so I could take pictures exactly like this. What a dunderhead. 

I stopped and dug my camera out of the trunk.  It made a world of difference. Well, you can see for yourself if the pictures were worth it. Hopefully they are good pictures.


Union cannon emplacements


A full battery of Union guns.


Monument to "Old Abe." Wisconsin's mascot that travelled with them.


Typical civil war monument.  There are hundreds of such.


A famous Union attack is documented here, with markers depicting each event.


The mysterious monument off in the distance.


Another view of Hill Fort that overlooked the river.


I followed the route just like yesterday until I got to the ironside ship. There was a one lane road that terminated by the ship. It had big sign saying no entry.  I was left wondering where the heck the entry to the one-lane road was. My audio tour mentioned at the very beginning that floods had closed a large part of the park. Maybe this one lane road was one such closed section - except it sure didn't look closed to me.


The display of ironside Cairo.


A bit closer view of Cairo.








The Spyder parked by Cairo.


I pulled up Google Maps and traced the road way back to near the entrance. So I got on the bike and rode back to the head of the one way road and turned onto it.  There were signs at the entrance warning of construction but the road was open.

The road went to the very north edge of the park. I'm really glad I came back to ride this because it's some of the most interesting part of the Vicksburg story. Before the siege and everything, General Sherman tried to attack Vicksburg from the north. And even though he had a large army and was well prepared, they just could not overcome the defenses. And this road really showed why. It quickly dropped down off the raised parts of Vicksburg into real low scrubby woodland. Everybody in history books talks about the swampy terrain and them trying to climb up unscalable hills. I was able to see all of that on this road. 

Even without someone shooting at me I don't think I could cross this landscape and climb the hills. 

Looking down, across, and up at the defenders positions at Vicksburg.


More of the terrain north of Vicksburg.


Much more shade with the sun low in the sky.


The new section of road recently re-paved.


Mysterious monument turned out to be the US Navy Memorial.



Union Ave turned out to be great.  I'm glad I came back to ride it.



I also found an explanation for this massive obelisk.  I could see the obelisk from several places on the road yesterday, but I had no idea what it was. I thought maybe it was some monument in the city itself. But this road came around the north side of town and the park, and there sat this monument to the naval officers and ships that helped to take Vicksburg. 

The Mississippi River has changed course since the Civil War. You can see where it used to run and how the heights used to be able to shoot any ship coming down the river. But being down here at the bottom of the bluffs, you can also see how protected the Vicksburg cannoneers were. They were able to hide back over the crest of the hill and there was almost no way to get anything to drop down onto them. 


Old course of the Mississippi. Now it's a "backwater." Connected but no flow through.


When I came out at the bottom end of the one-way road, I was once again by the ironside ship. 

I had spent almost two hours in the park and it was starting to warm up. I still had three hours of riding to get to Baton Rouge, where I was to meet up with my friends. So I turned for the fifth time up the road towards the park exit. I continued listening to the audio tour but I was going quicker and several times the audio tour cut itself off when I reached the next spot before the last one had finished. 

Once I got back to the visitor center, I parked in my favorite shady spot. After a quick bathroom break, I put my hat away and put my helmet back on and all my other safety gear. I also made sure my water and everything else was topped up and good, and picked my destination and headed out. 

I deliberately picked a route that avoided the Natchez Trace Parkway so I could ride it with my friends. And I didn't feel like riding the freeway, so I also avoided that route. That left me changing back roads about every 20 to 30 minutes, but it was a very nice drive, other than the constantly increasing temperature. 

After an hour I picked a random gas station and pulled in for a quick break. I think I was the only person who actually used it as a gas station. Cars kept pulling in and going up to the pumps but they wouldn't turn their cars off. They'd leave their stereo blasting as loud as it could go, and they'd walk into the store and come back out. Then get in their car and drive away. This happened over and over again. All the while, I ate a little piece of lemon pound cake that I bought, drank some Gatorade, then wet down my vest and headed out again. 


Wetting the evaporative vest.  Put it in a trashbag, dump water over it, let it sit a few minutes.



By the time I reached the outskirts of Baton Rouge, the temperature was back up over 100 degrees. I made one quick stop to pick something up from an Amazon locker. Then I headed over to a restaurant to get some lunch. I thought I had picked a Cajun place but it was mostly just a seafood restaurant. I got blackened fish tacos and they were very good. But the real star of my lunch was the fresh corn. It had been freshly cut from the cob, cooked, and then served with a lobster bisque soup poured over the top. The combination of really good corn with that lobster bisque was fantastic. I'd eat that again any time. 

I also ordered a Diet Coke. She brought me a cup of ice and one of those teeny little Coke bottles full of Diet Coke. I didn't dare look at how much I paid for that stinkin' little Diet Coke. The whole meal was $22 with tip, and I just left with the happy memory of the corn. 

I rode over to the Hampton Inn and tried to check in, but the lady at the front desk had no reservation under my name or John's. After a bit of checking around, it turned out the reservation was actually at a different Hampton Inn, but fortunately, one not too far away. Once that was figured out, John then had to call the correct Hampton Inn and put my name on the reservation so that I could check in without him.  Then the final curveball was that this Hampton Inn didn't have a self-serve laundry, and I'm out of clean clothes.  Tomorrow's hotel has one so I hand-washed a few things, then hung them to dry.   It will be fine.

In the meantime John and Ron were riding over from Arizona and today they got stuck in a massive rainstorm - four hours straight of heavy rain crossing Texas. 

Then just to pile on, John and Ron's wives were flying in to Baton Rouge today, but their flight got delayed, which in turn meant they missed their connecting flight in Houston. So they had to rent a car and drive from Houston to Baton Rouge (about 270 miles). 

And finally, to add insult to injury, while at dinner last night, the waitress lost my credit card.  She swears she brought it back, but no.  So I had to cancel it and get a new one in the middle of a trip.

But all these little things eventually turn into great memories and funny stories.

I did one other thing with my extra time this morning, I figured out how to buy a single song on Amazon.  For a few weeks I've been wanting to buy James Taylor's "Secret O' Life."  It's all about enjoying what you have. As little things have piled up today, I've had that in mind.  Even the stupid little Diet Coke bottle incident is a memory that will provide me years of laughs.

John and Ron did finally arrive to Baton Rouge safe and sound - and a bit damp.  They got checked in and we walked to a nearby Chili's restaurant for dinner.  Ron started teasing the waitress who teased him right back.  We talked and caught up on lives and plans.  Like I said, this is what these trips is really about.  Seeing the sites and having experience is nice, but good friends and memories are the real treasure.


Daily Miles: 207
Total Miles: 2107
Total drive time: 43h45m

Wednesday, September 2, 2026

2026 Natchez Trace ride - Day 7 - Vicksburg Battlefield


Vicksburg National Military Park


I didn't get up super early.  Without headlights there was no point in leaving before sunrise.  There were only me and one other car in the parking lot all night.


Pretty empty motel


I was getting everything all packed up and loaded on the bike. I took my hydration bag I walked over to load it with ice from the ice machine, when a work truck pulled up.  The truck hadn't been in the parking lot so it wasn't hotel guests.  One of the guys beat me to the ice machine and proceeded to load his personal ice chest to the very top. Then I loaded my hydration bags. The other two guys loaded their ice chest to the top after me. I guess they're using the hotel for free ice. 

It was just after 6:00 a.m. when I pulled out.  I didn't even bother checking the hotel breakfast. I rode over to the nearest Sonic and enjoyed an ultimate meat and cheese breakfast burrito with the gentle Rumble of the highway behind me.   I was out on the road by 6:45

Within a few miles I was out of town  and riding on an empty two lane highway through the trees.  The road was well maintained with a couple houses every per mile.  The speed limit was only 50 miles an hour but the temperature had dropped into the mid-70s and it felt pretty good.

After a while the GPS directed me to turn left and merge onto the Natchez Trace Parkway.  That's actually one of the main reasons I'm doing this ride.  I'm going to meet 2 couples in Bator Rouge and we will spend 3 days riding the Natchez Trace Parkway.  I'll talk about that more in 2 days when we start the ride.

Natchez Trace Parkway


For now, I'll just give you my impressions.  I was very surprised to find that the Natchez Trace it was a purpose-built road. I thought it was like Route 66 and it was just whatever pre-built road just happened to be going in the direction that the highway needed it to go. But the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Natchez Trace, was custom built and is almost very freeway-like. It has merge lanes and exit lanes, roads either pass over or under the Trace without breaking the traffic flow. Once I got on the Parkway. I set my cruise control to 55 and didn't have to touch the throttle unless I wanted to pass a car. The Parkway was so empty that I was able to pass almost immediately any car that I came up on. 

And the road was very well groomed. The grass along the sides was mown down, the trees were trimmed back nicely. It just felt elegant. I felt bad because I was getting to experience this without my companions. But not so bad that I was going to leave the Parkway. 

I rode for about 50 miles before a road closure forced me to leave the Parkway. The GPS had me follow the detour for a little bit but then it routed me over to a freeway and I headed south for the city of Jackson. I was getting close to Vicksburg when I started trying to find a place to gas up and to buy something for lunch. Just two miles before I was going to exit, there is a gas station with a Subway in it. I got a nice Italian sub, a large bottle of Gatorade, two bottles of water, and a cup of Diet Dr. Pepper. Then I got back on the bike and headed into Vicksburg National Military Park.

The park was right off the freeway. There was nowhere to park and get a picture of the welcome sign so I just headed in. There was a booth at the entrance and I showed the lady my National Park Pass.  I asked her if there were any good places to picnic and she said there was one spot with picnic tables but there was no shade. She did tell me there was a bench wrapping around a tree just behind us and it was well shaded. I rode over there and parked the bike in some shade. 

I got my sandwich and all my other goodies out and moved over to the bench. It was not a bad and without the sun beating down on me it was almost pleasant.  I sat for about 20 minutes listening to music, eating my sandwich, and studying the map the ranger had given me.  I was going to follow the audio guide directions, but I also wanted to understand the basic route.

Enjoying my lunch in the shade of a tree


I was really shocked by how big the park was.  It went from the north end of Vicksburg east and then south almost entirely encompassing the city, just like the actual siege that Grant had set up.  I had no idea there would be so much.  I figured they had 2 or 3 "examples" of the fortifications, but this was almost all of them.  I was really excited to do this ride.

I finally finished, then took all my trash to go find a garbage can at the visitor center.  But when I got there, I found a sign saying that this park had no trash cans and I needed to take my own trash away and dispose of it myself.  No big deal.  I carried it back to the bike and tucked it in the trunk.

Then I grabbed my 360 camera and walked about 80 yards over to get a picture by the entry sign.  By the time I got it and walked back I was really sweating.  The direct sun just kills me.  I sat on the bike for a bit drinking from my hydration bag.  I also took a picture of me drinking from my hydration bag since I talk about it so much.  The bag sits in a pocket behind my backrest and the insulated tube sticks out on my right side.  I can reach down and grab it, then I usually pinch the mouth peace to let the hot water in the tube drain out and be replaced with cold water.  Then I put it in my mouth, bite down and suck the ice cold water into my mouth.



Monument near the front entrance


Hydrating before starting my ride  (It's not a hooka)



Once I was cooled down again, I headed into the park.  Like yesterday's trip to Shiloh, I'm not going to talk too much about the ride, not label the pictures.  There's just too much and I can't remember which picture goes with which monument or story element.


The entry arch


Once I was in the park, I only used 1st and 2nd gear.  I was barely going about a fast walking pace for most of the ride.  If there was a breeze in the air, the temperature would cool right down to the low 90s, but if the air was still, the asphalt would heat it up into the hundreds.  I often stood up on the bike to catch air and help cool me off.  Some of the roads were tree lined and had allot of shade, but most of the time is was wide open and the sun beat down on me.


Shade covered road


Wide open scorching hot road


Trying to feel a cool breeze





360 camera in front of the bike doesn't give a good photo











The tour told the story of Grant marching his army down the far side of the Mississippi River, then crossing the river south of Vicksburg.  Once he was on the west back of the river he didn't directly attack Vicksburg, but kept moving east towards the city of Jackson. They scared a Confederate army out of the city and then proceeded to destroy anything of any military value in the whole city of Jackson. 

Once he didn't have to worry about an army attacking him from behind, he then turned toward Vicksburg. The Army in Vicksburg did come out and clash with Grant's army but they weren't nearly big enough to hold him back. Grant chased them all the way back into Vicksburg then set up a siege around the entire city. 

One of the things that made Vicksburg so valuable was that it sat atop a high bluff overlooking the river.  No one could go up or down the river without the cannons of Vicksburg blasting them out of the water.


Hill Fort.  The cannons here could sink any boat trying to sneak past



Vicksburg had been well entrenched and Grant could not force his way through those defenses. Grant set up matching entrenchments and held the army in place, couldn't get any resupplies. Not only did Grant set up entrenchments holding the Army in Vicksburg, he then turned around and set up entrenchments in case someone did try to attack him from behind. This lasted until July fourth when the Army in Vicksburg surrendered.   Vicksburg was won at the same time that Gettysburg was won.  Most historians agree that Vicksburg was the more important battle but it's not as well known. 

It was a very long ride following the audio tour through all the roads in the park. The confederate lines and the union lines mostly matched each other, but neither was string.  I kept seeing signs telling me I was entering union lines or confederate.  Historians say that the 2 armies were often so close that the soldiers could actually talk between the lines and the liked to needle each other.

I was about half way through the ride when I got my biggest surprise.  There was a union "Iron Clad" ship on display.  I had no idea that they had that here.  The Iron Clads are just what the name suggests.  They were boats completely covered in iron.  Prior to the civil war, all ships were wood.  But day 2 iron clad ships started firing cannons at each other, every other ship in the world became obsolete.  It wasn't long before every country around the world was also building iron ships.

I eagerly parked my bike, grabbed my camera and walked up to the ship to take pictures.  And even better, they actually let you go about the ship and walk around part of it.  I geeked out something fierce.  There was a paddle wheel at the back, so this was one of the shallow water iron clads.  Which makes since since we're on the backs of a river.


Iron clad Cairo

















I eventually had my feel of staring and went into the museum.  It was blessedly air conditioned.  I took a good long time looking through the items that were brought up with the ship when it was re-floated.  It had hit a mine and went down so fast that everything was left aboard.  I finally cooled off enough that I could face the heat again.  Unfortunately there was no shade to park the bike in, so it was scorching hot when I climbed back on.  But instead of going right back to the audio tour, I went up the road until I found some shake, then parked and got off the bike to let it and me cool down.



The monument by the tree behind me is where Grant and Pemberton met to end the siege



Letting the bike cool and eating pretzels to get some salt back in my system


I also got out my evaporative vest and poured a bottle of water on it.  Unfortunately, the was was barely cool by this time so the vest didn't really help much.  I follow the audio guide for another 45 minutes But I was about done with the heat. I followed the signs to the exit and rode back over by the visitors center.  There was only a small patch of shade left and I parked the bike in it, then walked over and into the building.  Luckily they have a theatre and the movie was just about to start.

I sat through the movie but it didn't say anything that I haven't seen, heard, or read before.  But it was air conditioned so I sat there anyway.

When I went back out, I went over to sit in the shade where I'd eaten my lunch and started researching hotels.  I was tempted to stay in a B&B downtown in a home built in the 1800s, but I couldn't see where I'd park the bike and I didn't want to park it on the street in a sketchy part of town, so I booked a room in a LaQuinta instead.


Back in the shade by the entrance


My hotel was only 1 mile away so I rode over and checked in.  More blessed air conditioning.  I unloaded and rested for 20 minutes, then started processing my 360 pictures.  I've been experimenting with the 360 camera.  Normally I have it mounted so that the camera sits just off my right shoulder.  I can extend it out 2 or 3 feet, or have back pretty close to me.  The pictures I get are generally pretty good.  But I wondered if I couldn't take pictures from behind the bike, or in front, or right down by a wheel close to the ground.  So at the start of the ride I took a bunch of pictures holding the selfie stick in my hands and moving the camera around.  I found a couple of interesting perspectives, but where I have the camera seems about as good as I can get, except maybe to have it on the left side rather than the right side.

Once I had the pictures processed, I uploaded them to my website.  It was almost 6:00 and I wanted some dinner.  The couples I'm meeting aren't adventurous eaters.  So if I wanted something a bit more exotic, now was the time.  I searched for a decent Sushi restaurant and found one 3 miles away.

When I got there, I asked my waitress "What's good?  What are they known for?"  She said "I don't like sushi, so I don't know."  I almost got up and left, but I didn't.  I ordered fried pot stickers, some salmon rolls, and salmon sashimi.  It was all very good.  I paid about $34 with tip.  Not cheap, but not over the top.

When I got back to the hotel, I parked by a work truck with 3 construction workers.  They all started asking questions about the bike, but I didn't know that for a few seconds.  They were from Louisiana and I couldn't understand their accent for the life of me.  Once I said "Sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking" in my southwest accent, one of the guys spoke more slowly and said "How much did the bike cost".  We talked for a while about the bike, what it's like to ride, and where I'd been and was going.  I never did understand the other 2.   They were laughing about my accent too and often couldn't understand me either.

I think I've decided to go ride through the park again in the morning.  It will be cooler and I can take more time reading signs and trying to imagine how the fortifications were laid out.

I need to be in Baton Rouge by late afternoon, and that's less than 3 hours away so it should be easy.


Daily Miles: 207
Total Miles: 1900
Total drive time: 37h56m