We woke up at 8:00 this morning despite our naïve intentions of an early
wakeup. Our hotel came with a free buffet breakfast, so we headed for the 7th
floor to get some protein and carbs to fuel the day.
The restaurant turned out to be on the roof of the hotel with huge windows all
the way around, and best of all, tables on the balcony outside. We grabbed the
first table we say, then went back to get our food. Lots of fresh fruit, eggs,
sausage, bread, cheese, bacon, and diet coke. What more could you ask for.
The temperature was in the mid 60s, the sun was on the other side of the hotel
so we werent sun baked, and other than the occasional siren of an
ambulance (we hear lots of those), it was a wonderful way to spend our breakfast
time. I liked it so much I thought it was photo worthy and ran back to our room
to get my camera and tripod. Mike isnt a fan of my tripod habit because it
always means I expect him to stand by me with a forced grin on his face IN the
picture rather than taking the picture.
After breakfast we wandered the balcony and found where we should have sat with
views of the Vatican and Bourghese park, but we had shade so we werent too
upset.
This morning we walked down the hill, past the Trevi fountain (4th time for
those keeping score). They were cleaning the fountain so we didnt take
pictures of the guys in white Tyvek suits.
We walked on to the Campo de Fiore. Its an open square where they hold an
open air market. We wandered around looking at the fruit and vegetables, jewelry,
and other nic nacs. They had a lot of murano glass jewelry that I might have
bought, but Ive learned that my daughters and I do not share the same
tastes in jewelry, so I just looked. But I did spot a hat booth, and since Koren
had asked for a hat like the young women wear in Italy, I started looking around
trying to see what hats they were here. After 20 minutes I determined that young
women in Italy typically dont wear hats. But I did see a couple of hats
and found one that I think shell like (read what I said a couple sentences
ago).
The last thing I did in the Campo de Fiore was to buy an apple. I picked one
with a name Id never heard, and with a bright red and yellow color that Id
never seen before. It was amazingly sweet and juicy and made a great snack as we
continued our walk.
We crossed the Tiber river to the neighborhood of Trestevere and wandered the
streets. Nearly everything was closed because it was early on a Monday morning.
We took a few random street turnings and eventually wound up in a square with
medium sized fountain. One side of the square had an old church, and since we
had yet to go into a church of any type we decided to go into this one. It
turned out to be Santa Maria in Trestevere which is the oldest church in Rome.
We took a few pictures and admired the ceiling and murals. A class of kids came
in and disrupted the solitude. Even though the kids spoke Italian, it was
generally easy to understand the joking and play.
After leaving the church, we wanted something to drink, and where do you get a
relatively cheap soda in Rome??? McDonalds of course. They are everywhere here.
But at least the Pizza hut and subways that we saw in London havent made
it here yet. Oh, and we got a large fries too.
By this time it was nearly noon and time to head toward the Vatican. The guide
book recommended that we wait until after lunch before going to the Vatican
because the morning crowds are so heavy.
Once we were near the Vatican we started looking for lunch. All we could see
nearby was junk food carts so we headed off the main roads to find a back alley
café. My body was finally ready for a good salad and Mike got the same
spicey spaghetti that he had the night before just to see if it would be any
better. This time the pasta was real buccatini but the sauce wasnt as good.
After lunch we wandered some of the shops on our way back to the Vatican. Mikes
grandmother is a very devout Catholic and he wanted to get her something that
shed appreciate.
As we entered the St Peters square, we were accosted by tour guides again,
with promises of skipping lines. But our lesson at the coliseum was well learned
and we didnt even bother responding to them.
There was a security line to enter St Peters Basilica, but no fee or
tickets beyond that. The line seemed long but took less than 10 minutes to get
in. We headed straight into the Basilica itself. It was very dark inside and my
tripod came in very handy getting clear pictures of the various features. We had
no trouble using the tripod in its shortened form sitting on partitions or
benches, but when I started to open it for a photo at the back of the church, a
guard quickly told me that wasnt allowed.
One of the major works of art in the basilica was Michalangelos statue of
Mary holding the crucified Christ on her lap. There was a pane of glass between
us and the statue, and a window on the far side of the church was reflecting off
of the glass. There was just no way to get a decent picture of the statue
without getting that reflected window in the shot. Thats why they invented
post cards I guess.
After we had wandered the basilica a few times, we headed down to the papal
tombs. No photos were allowed down there even though I saw many people
surreptitiously snapping photos. As we approached the tomb of John Paul II
guards were preventing anyone from stopping. But a large group had gathered back
on the other side of the corridor to pay their respects.
We left the basilica and walked the 1.5 km to the Vatican museum.
There we so many statues and paintings that its hard to pick any one thing
that stands out. I wandered in awe of the treasures in every room. But
eventually we found ourselves in a steep staircase descending toward the Sistine
Chapel. It was both inspiring and a disappointment.
There is nowhere to sit and take in the views, it was jam packed with people, no
photos are allowed, it is darkened, the chatter keeps building and then the
guards try to shush everyone, people keep trying to take photos so the guards
push through to them to stop them, and the paintings are beautiful. Its
kind of like when I went to see the Mona Lisa, the experience around it isnt
fun at all, but its beautiful.
When we finally stopped fighting the crowd, we found ourselves spurted out the
far end of the chapel and continued the tour of ancient roman copies of ancient
Greek statues. Seriously, nearly every statue had that as its history.
Several times I startled myself when I realized that I was concentrating on the
statues and had been completely oblivious to the fantastic architecture of the
room holding the statues. I think my brain is just on overload of the quantity
of history and beauty surrounding me.
For dinner we decided to try the most popular pizza place in Rome,
at least thats what one of the guide books told us. The staff squeezed us
through the main room and out to a tent tacked onto the side of the building,
then to the very back of that. We tried not to take it personally that we were
as far out of sight as possible. We ordered a couple of toasted brochette as
appetizers, then got a pepperoni pizza and a mushroom and onion pizza. Oh, we
also got a couple of Coka-lite to go with it all. Their pizzas are incredibly
thin and very crispy crust and tasty.
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped by Trevi fountain for the 4th time, and
this time we really fought the crowd to get in a position to take some night
photos with my tripod.
Oh, and we both tossed coins into Trevi fountain so that we could both come back
to Rome again.
Breakfast on the roof of our hotel
The view of the Vatican from the hotel roof
Glass jewelry in the market. I wish I knew what my daughters would like
The roof of Santa Maria in Trestevere
Lunch before entering the Vatican
Aproaching St Peters Basilica
Inside St Peters
The 95 oil lamps that descend to the grotto (famous in Angels and Demons)
The Pietà sculpted by Michelangelo
Mike and I in front of St Peters
A room full of sculpture in the Vatican museum
Everywhere you look are priceless works of art, floor, wall, and ceiling
"The Nile"
Taking a break in the only quiet spot we found in the Vatican
Costello St Angelo (famous in Angels and Demons)
The statue atop Costello St Angelo
Pizza for dinner in Rome
Trevi fountain at night
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